June 2026 · 9 min · By Zain Karim
Khaplu and the Hushe Valley: The Quiet Side of Baltistan
Two and a half hours east of Skardu, almost no tourists, a 19th-century palace as your hotel, and trailheads to peaks most travellers never see.
Khaplu valley pakistan is the eastern half of Baltistan that almost no first-time traveller visits, which is exactly the reason to go. Two and a half hours east of Skardu on the rebuilt Shyok road, ringed by 7,000-m peaks, with one of the best hotels in northern Pakistan and trailheads to a wall of Karakoram giants that climbers know intimately and tourists barely register.
Where Khaplu sits
Khaplu town is the headquarters of Ghanche district, the easternmost district of Gilgit-Baltistan. It sits at 2,600 m at the confluence of the Shyok and Hushe rivers. East and north of it is the high Karakoram, Masherbrum (7,821 m), K6 (7,282 m), K7 (6,934 m). The road continues east past Khaplu town for about 90 km before approaching the Line of Control with Indian-administered Ladakh; tourist movement is unrestricted up to Hushe village.
Khaplu Palace
The Serena Khaplu Palace is the seat of the former Raja of Khaplu, built in 1840, restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture between 2005 and 2011, and now run as a 21-room heritage hotel. It is one of two restored fort-hotels in Baltistan (the other being Shigar) and the more atmospheric of the two by most accounts. Carved wood ceilings, dimly lit corridors, courtyards, and a kitchen that takes Balti cooking seriously. It is the only luxury stay east of Skardu and the reason most clients build Khaplu into a Baltistan trip.
In and around Khaplu town
- Khaplu Palace itself, book a guided palace tour even if you're not staying.
- Chaqchan Mosque, the 700-year-old wooden mosque in the bazaar, one of the oldest in the region.
- Thoqsi-khar fort ruins, a hike above town with valley views.
- The Saling and Surmo valley side trips, short drives for orchards and small villages.
The Hushe valley
Hushe is the side valley running north from Khaplu, 2.5 hours of jeep road up to the village of Hushe itself at 3,050 m. The drive is the highlight: a steady climb through Balti hamlets, Kanday, Machulu, with Masherbrum revealing itself piece by piece. The road is rough; 4WD essential. From Hushe village the trailheads for Masherbrum base camp, K6 base camp and the Gondogoro La (from the Hushe side) all begin.
Trekking from Hushe
- Masherbrum base camp, 4 days return, moderate to demanding, sleeping high.
- K6 base camp, 3 days return, simpler logistics, dramatic camp.
- Gondogoro La (Hushe side), the exit leg of the K2 trek; permitted only with full ice equipment and a fixed-rope team.
- Day walks above Hushe village, easy half-day options for non-trekkers.
When to go
Khaplu town: April to October. Hushe valley: May to early October; the upper valley snows in seasonally. Late September is our pick, orchards in autumn colour, Hushe accessible, clear skies on Masherbrum.
Practical notes
- Foreign passport holders need an NOC for upper Hushe beyond the village; we arrange in advance.
- ATMs in Khaplu town only. Carry cash beyond.
- SCOM for mobile in Khaplu town; nothing past Hushe.
- Drive Skardu-Khaplu: 2.5 hours on rebuilt road; Khaplu-Hushe village: 2.5 hours on jeep track.
Q. Is Khaplu worth the extra journey from Skardu?
Yes if you have at least two nights to give it, and especially if you're staying at Khaplu Palace. Going for a single night turns a great destination into a long road trip. With two nights you get the palace, a Hushe valley day, and the bazaar without rushing.
Q. Do I need a permit for Khaplu valley?
Not for Khaplu town or the standard road up to Hushe village. NOC is required for any travel beyond Hushe village (Masherbrum base camp, K6 base camp, Gondogoro). We arrange the NOC 2-4 weeks before arrival.
Q. How is Khaplu Palace compared to Shigar Fort?
Both are remarkable AKTC restorations run by Serena. Shigar Fort is smaller, more intimate, more concentrated. Khaplu is larger, with more rooms, more grounds, and a calmer feel. Most clients who do both prefer Khaplu, narrowly.
Q. Can I trek Masherbrum base camp as a day trip?
No, it is a 4-day return trek with one night at altitude. Day walks above Hushe village give a taste of the terrain without the commitment. For Masherbrum or K6 base camp we run dedicated 4-5 day expeditions with porters and a cook crew.
Q. Is there a tourist police presence in Khaplu?
Yes, a small but visible one, mostly handling NOC checks for foreigners going up Hushe. Friendly and straightforward; carry your passport and NOC photocopy.
Written by
Zain Karim
Head of mountain operations
Zain has run private trips through Hunza, Skardu and the Karakoram since 2019. He spends about 120 nights a year above 2,500 m and writes about the routes he guides.
Has guided the Hunza-Skardu loop more than forty times.
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